Do-it-yourself shower tray

Bathroom is of great importance for each person. When he wakes up, he goes to wash, brush his teeth, sets himself up, takes a shower after a working day or walk. However, there are not so many happy owners of large premises, so for a more comfortable use of space, many save every centimeter. Arrange the walls, equip niches, instead of bulky cast-iron baths set hydromassage boxes. The construction market offers a large range of finished products, but the shower can be built independently. For example, a shower tray is installed with its own hands in one of the free corners, a partition is built around it on the one hand, and on the other hand a door is hung.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade pallets

Pallets are an integral part of the shower stall; some models can be used as an independent sanitary installation. They are designed to collect and drain the water used during the shower. Self-made design will cost much cheaper than purchased counterparts, and with self-installation you can save on the services of a construction company. The main advantages of such products include:

• the ability to choose the shape, size and volume that meet the parameters of both small spaces and spacious rooms;
• determination of the most suitable design and color scale that will allow to enter an element into the existing interior, to make it an independent accent;
• selection of building materials that meet the requirements;
• the establishment of an optimal location for the structure;
• the choice of a complete set of the shower pallet.

Of the shortcomings of such structures is difficult to allocate something, except for the time spent. However, improper installation will lead to trouble:

• in the absence of tightness of the structure, water may enter the junction of the walls and the floor covering, which will contribute to the formation of fungi;
• inaccuracy in fixing the drain system will lead to its failure.

The choice of location and determine the size

When drafting a project, determining the type of structure, it is initially necessary to choose its location. This parameter depends on the size of the bathroom, its layout, placement of plumbing communications.

The supply pipe of water pipes can be made in any area, but to organize the optimal slope for the drain is more difficult. It is necessary for the riser to be as close as possible. Otherwise, you will have to raise the level of the floor, which will lead to high costs, and in some rooms it is impossible to perform such actions at all.

After selecting the appropriate place, you can proceed to the calculation of the size of the pallet. The dimensions of the product are chosen taking into account such factors as the area of ​​the bathroom, physical features and wishes of each family member, the location of other elements, the presence of a minimum free area in front of functional sanitary objects.

Also, when choosing a form, in addition to the basic requirements, take into account its compliance with the interior of the sanitary room.

Selection of materials for the manufacture of pallets

The most elementary way in the construction of a hydromassage box will be the use of finished products. Manufacturers offer a wide range of pallets made of different materials: iron, steel, ceramics, artificial stone, acrylic blends, wood, plastic. But the use of factory models with a seat suits not everyone, not only because of the standard forms, but also the absence of the author's design.

At an independent construction of the pallet the choice of building materials for the basis does not differ a variety. This can be either a cement screed or a brickwork. In the first embodiment, when pouring concrete, a standard cement-sand mixture with the addition of plasticizers is used. In the second - a red, ceramic brick, which is not afraid of moisture.

An important role is played by the waterproofing of the room, on which its integrity depends, the absence of extraneous odors. There is a wide variety of insulation materials - from penetrating to rolled. It is also worth paying special attention to the drain system, choose the most suitable ladder.

Unlike building materials used to prepare the base, the choice of decorative finishes is richer. Here can be used mosaic, natural, artificial stone, ceramic tile, plaster, paint. This range will allow you to give the shower any design that matches the design of the room.

Types of drains for drainage - which one to choose?

It is possible to organize the drain in the box in two ways: using channels or ladders. The first option includes a drainage tray, sectional lattice, drain pipe. Products are made from ceramics, plastic, metal. We will dwell on the second form in more detail, because channel drain is often referred to as its variety.

Gangway - sanitary equipment, designed to collect and drain the drain water from the shower stall to the plumbing communications. In addition, it also performs a number of useful functions: it prevents the penetration of extraneous odors, filters the liquid, and allows cleaning the sewage system without any problems.

The product has the following design:

• stainless steel grill;
• hair retention grille;
• rubber compressor;
• sealing flange and ring;
• protective cover for installation work;
• the smell of the shutter;
• housing;
• one by-pass pipe or two in through models.

Ladders are made from cast iron, high-strength plastic, stainless steel. Finished products may differ in many ways:

• By type of construction: horizontal, vertical.
• By the method of installation: point, wall, corner, embedded.
• By type of shutter: hydraulic, dry, mechanical, with a check valve.
• By the number of conclusions: single, dual channel.
• Height - depends on the type of pallet.
• According to the presence of additional elements and the decor of the lattice.

Device pallets

The device of the shower tray depends on its type (brick, concrete), the presence of a layer of insulation, floor heating system. Consider for example the standard device design:

1. Concrete base;
2. Obmazochnaya waterproofing base;
3. A layer of foam polystyrene insulation;
4. The ladder, sewer pipes, are built in a heater;
5. Glazing waterproofing;
6. Concrete screed;
7. Tile adhesive;
8. Mosaic, ceramic tile.

The shower floor can be installed in two main ways: pour concrete with the base or on top of the finished floor. In the first embodiment, the branch pipes are below the level of the floor covering and are not visible, in the second case they will have to be masked. It should be borne in mind that the discharge device has a minimum height of 6-7 cm. It is also required to observe a pipe slope of 1 cm per meter towards the outlet of the riser. Accordingly, the level of the floor after embedding will increase significantly.

Waterproofing - what material to choose and why it is needed

The bathroom usually has a small area, and its ventilation can not always cope with the high humidity generated by condensate. In the shower, the water in its pure form falls on the floor and finishing materials. If waterproofing is not foreseen here, then moisture can calmly be absorbed, seep through the floor, which will lead not only to unpleasant situations with neighbors, but also to the destruction of walls, cladding, mold, unpleasant smell.

Waterproofing is divided into:

• pasting (roofing material, stekloizol, gidroizol, isol);
• cast (epoxy mixtures, liquid glass, pitch, bitumen1);
• painting (materials based on polymers, resins, minerals, bitumen);
• coating (bituminous, polyurethane mastic, polymer cement);
• penetrating (water repellent impregnation).

The choice of a particular type of waterproofing largely depends on the available tools, preferences and skills of the master. When installing a high shower stall, several different types of insulation are usually combined, for example, the base is covered with bitumen, and roofing material is used for the intermediate layer.

Partition and doors - plastic or glass

Shower box, made by hand, will be able to surpass the purchased counterparts. In addition, to choose the size for the individual parameters of the pallet will be very problematic. Installation of partitions and doors produced on a ready-made basis, after the completion of wall and ceiling cladding.

The best of materials for self-erecting enclosing elements is glass. If the budget allows, you can order impact-resistant triplex or opt for thickened versions of 8-10 mm, pasting them with a special film. Also for the manufacture of these parts are used plastic panels and polycarbonate.

Glass surfaces, unlike plastic parts, do not grow dull with time, they are easier to care for and clean from dirt. Moreover, from an aesthetic point of view, they look much more attractive. Plastic will be much cheaper, it is much easier to work with it, it has a small weight. Models of expensive polycarbonate are a bit more expensive, but their characteristics are not inferior to glass, and in some moments even exceed it.

Phased construction of a pallet with formwork

Before construction, regardless of the selected materials, preparatory activities are carried out. With a thorough repair, all plumbing fixtures are removed from the premises, after which the old floor covering and wall covering are removed. If defects are found, gaps in the floor, they are cleaned of dust, filled with cement mortar. After that, the surface is primed in two layers. At the junction of the walls with the slab, a waterproofing film is glued. Then the floor is treated with bitumen mastic.

When carrying out installation work, follow a few simple rules:

1. De-energize the wiring in the room, insulate it.
2. Close all openings of the incoming pipes to avoid clogging.
3. Follow the rules of TB when working with the tool.

Materials and tools

For the construction of the pallet will need the following tools:

• flat board, wooden slabs for the construction of formwork;
• shovel, trowel, rule;
• beacons, gauges, thread, marker;
• brush, roller for applying a primer;
• tile cutter, grinder, tools for grouting;
• tank for mixing tile glue and concrete mortar.

Materials:

• floor drain; sewer pipes;
• cement grade M 500, sand, water;
• obmazochny, okleechny waterproofing;
• primer;
• tile adhesive, grout, tile.

Installation of the ladder and sewage

After preparing the base should be engaged in the drain system. It is necessary to correctly and efficiently mount the ladder, since upon completion of construction activities it will be very difficult, almost impossible to correct inaccuracies. Work must begin with the installation and connection of branch pipes.

Water should go by gravity, not stagnate in the system. This requires to organize the slope in the direction of the riser. The optimum angle is equal to 3 °. To withstand it, you can use wooden supports of different heights, where the smallest will be located near the sewer drain.

Fixation of pipes is carried out using cement mortar, as well as a layer of insulation, if any. In the same way the ladder itself is rigidly fixed. It is important to pay attention to the joints between the drain elements, they must be completely sealed, so it is recommended to check them before pouring the solution.

Mounting the formwork and pouring a rough tie

The next step will be the installation of formwork. For its construction, you can use flat boards, laminated plywood, fiberboard, MDF, as well as plastic lining to give a semicircular shape. Having installed the chosen material, having sealed the joints with a solution, fix it with dowels, clamps, thrust, we place heavy objects on the outside.

Inside the formwork lay reinforcing mesh. We start pouring concrete mix, the height of which depends on how necessary to raise the floor. To facilitate the construction, to reduce its weight, instead of standard concrete, you can use expanded clay concrete solution. After pouring, the top is rubbed, leveled using a rule, covered with plastic wrap for several days.

After the screed is dry, the formwork is removed. The coating is also primed and waterproofed. The application of several layers of insulation protects the ceiling from the penetration of moisture, the appearance of an unpleasant odor.

Installation of pallet rim formwork

For the formation of concrete sides will require another formwork, the same plan as the one that is used for strip foundations, only smaller. It is necessary to accurately measure the width of the sides, to keep this distance between the wooden plates or boards around the perimeter. Then knock down and firmly fix the removable form.

A cement-sand mortar is poured into the installed formwork. To increase its strength, you can use special additives, it is necessary to provide for the presence of a reinforcing mesh. In order for the mixture to penetrate all cavities, it should be pierced with a wooden stick or reinforcement. The top is leveled and covered with polyethylene. After 2-3 days the removable form is removed.

Internal finishing fill with a slope

After the bumpers are ready, a finishing fill is performed. For this, inside the future pallet, the cords are tightened with a small gradient towards the ramp. Due to this, water from the surface will drain into the drain system. Next, set the profile beacons.

After completing the preparatory steps, proceed to kneading a thick cement-sand mortar at the rate of 1: 2. For durability and increase of moisture resistance liquid glass is added to mix. Pour the solution, it is leveled using the rule. After the layer dries a little, the lighthouses are removed, and the cavities are filled with concrete, carefully aligned with a trowel.

Upon completion of the drying of the screed, the final waterproofing is performed, which is applied over the entire working surface of the pallet, including the sides. Liquid glass is also used as an insulating substance. It is necessary to apply protection with a thin layer.

Pallet lining

The final stage of construction work will be the finishing of the pallet with ceramic tiles. In the tank, the adhesive mixture is diluted with water, thoroughly stirred by a drill with a special nozzle. The obtained tile adhesive is applied on a horizontal surface with a layer of 5 mm, distributed by a spatula with a comb.

Laying tiles begins on the bottom of the bowl and on the surface of the sides. To ensure smooth laying, special crosses are used. Tile level can be adjusted with a rubber hammer. For shrinkage it is necessary to tap a little on the surface, the corner. For those places where the whole tile does not fit, using the tile cutter make the necessary dimensions.

After laying the floor proceed to the walls, performing all the same actions. After a time when the tile adhesive dries, crosses can be removed. The seams and the gaps between the tiles are rubbed. When the grout is dry, the surface of the tile is washed with a damp cloth.

Brick shower base

Brick construction is slightly different from deep concrete. The general technology is to prepare the foundation, perform waterproofing, install a drain system, erect walls of moisture-resistant ceramic bricks, and lay the final cladding.

The ideal option would be to install booths in a new house. During repair work, it will be necessary to carry out all the same preparatory measures as in the first case. Then you need to do the calculations, prepare everything you need.

Materials and tools

Any work begins with the collection of necessary materials. This process is very important, allows you to save time later, not to be distracted by the search for the missing components. To install the brick pallet, the following tools are required:

• capacity and shovel for mixing the solution;
• gauges, beacons, level, rope;
• spatula, trowel;
• brushes, rollers;
• rubber and standard hammer;
• usually grout;
• drill with special nozzle.

Materials used:

• red solid brick;
• set to organize the drain;
• cement grade M 500, sand, water;
• reinforcing mesh;
• waterproofing;
• tile adhesive, crosses to align tiles.

Installation of the ladder and laying brick

Before starting work, the parameters of the future structure are calculated. After the concrete base is covered with a layer of waterproofing and primer, proceed to the installation and fixing of the ladder, as well as branch pipes with the obligatory observance of an inclination angle of 3 °. Fixing the drain system is carried out by analogy with a concrete pan.

Выполнив подготовительные работы, приступают к укладке первого ряда по намеченной линии, при этом кирпичи кладут в шахматном порядке обратной стороной, соединяя их с полом и между собой цементным раствором. Второй ряд укладывается таким же способом, но с учетом бортиков, которые приподнимают на необходимую высоту. Чтобы ее регулировать, кирпич можно выкладывать на ложок.

In the place of passage of branch pipes and a ladder the cut material is laid, and voids are poured with mortar. To get the desired brick size, it can be split or sawed. Laying building material can be made not only on the cement-sand mixture, but also on tile adhesive, which is easier to work with.

Finishing screed

Pouring the finished layer of the cement-sand mixture is carried out after the mortar solution hardens. Here, the level also bounces at a certain angle in the direction of the location of the drain, the string is pulled, beacons are installed to level the flooded surface.

Next, knead the solution with the addition of liquid glass, poured the coupler. After that, it is leveled, covered with the final layer of waterproofing. At the final stage it remains only to decorate the structure.

Decorative cladding

Design can be done using different materials. How and what to decorate the podium, everyone decides on their own. The most popular finish is ceramic tile, decorative mosaic, natural stone.

Mosaic tiles begin to be laid from any angle at the bottom of the pallet. First, a tile adhesive is applied to the plane with a notched trowel, on which a mosaic sheet is placed. After the bottom is laid, proceed to the side. When the glue dries, the mosaic is treated with a waterproof grout.

It looks interesting surface, lined with polished pebbles. Usually it is sold in boxes, glued to the grid. Laying it is made by analogy with the tile. To trim the sides and corners will have to separate the small stones from the grid. The mortar must also be applied with a notched trowel, but with a thicker layer. After laying a beautiful natural stone is pressed against the float.

Conclusion

Having decided to install the shower tray yourself, it is necessary to weigh all the positive and negative aspects associated with this activity, to really assess their capabilities. If the available construction skills, the budget, the availability of free time allow you to complete your plans, then there is an opportunity to save on repair work, to do something valuable with your own hands. An important functional piece of furniture in the apartment, which the whole family will use, will not be ashamed to boast to their friends.